Xpu-Ha

Xpu-Há IS A LOVELY stretch of beach on a small bay about 100 km/60 mi south of Cancún. The beach is accessed from Highway 370 in the Riviera Maya.

At last count, there were five different turnoffs running from the highway to beach.  Most are clearly, if not spectacularly marked; the first appearing a few minutes after the resort community of Puerto Aventuras.

Pronounced ish-pooh-ha, the beach is rather impressive in the way Yucatán Peninsula beaches are. There's always something extra -a length of sparkling white sand isn't enough apparently.  Around the bay's northern point is the Xpu-Há Lagoon, and slightly inland from it, the stunning Xpu-Há cenote, a long, narrowish affair that snakes into the jungle for 500 meters.

Its shape and size make it one of the Yucatán's most unusual cenotes.  It only takes about 15 minutes to walk from the beach to the lagoon, then another 10 minutes to walk inland from the lagoon to the cenote. Xpu-Há harbors a few private homes, several groups of bungalows (rustic) for rent by the day, about two eateries, and at last count two dive operations.

The ceviche (fish in lemon) and fried fish are excellent and the rental rates are quite reasonable. MANATEES USED TO POSE ON THE BAY'S NORTHERN POINT, AND STILL APPEAR IN THE CENOTE ON RARE OCCASIONS. SEA TURTLES BREED ON THE BEACH. The local divers are experienced professionals who know the area well.

Their dive spot par excellence is a range of coral mountains approximately 20 minutes offshore. In addition to ocean diving, there's cave diving, immersions in the region's cenotes guided by these guys who provide the specialized gear and the required training. The waters right off the beach are great for swimming and snorkeling. Xpu-Há is a magical place, the kind of spot where you get lost for days at a time. Don't miss it; rent a car and go.