Back in San Miguel, passenger feries from the mainland drop visitors off at a pier located on the Malecon (boardwalk), the official name is which is the Avenida Rafael Melgar. San Miguel runs 14 blocks along the shore and a bit inland.

The town is arranged in a grid pattern, with even-numbered calles (streets) to the north and odd-numbered calles to the south. At the center of town there's an attractive town square called Plaza del Sol (sun plaza), with pleniful restaurants.

San Miguel boasts a proliferation of restaurants geared to all tastes and budgets. From streets-side cafes to sophisticated gourmet dining, this town had it all. 

Seafood, always fresh, is a popular choice and is served up in every style imaginable. Mexican specialties, Italian, Yucateca, Caribbean and American cuisine are available to temp both timid and adventurous palates.

It's often said that more than half the people who visit Cozumel come for the diving. Declarated a National Underwater Nature Reserve in 1972, the clear Caribbean water around the island is home to not less than 13 km (eight miles) of live reefs, caves, tunnels and coral overhangs - all boasting an incredible variety of marine life. 

There are more than 40 dive shops in Cozumel catering to everyone from snorkelers and first-time divers to those more at home underwater than on land.

One of the most visited reefs on the island is the famous Palancar: one look at this Reef 's dazzling array of coral surrounded by an endless variety of marine life is enough to inspire any diver. 

Other popular reefs include the Paradise, Colombia, Tormentos and the Santa Rosa Wall-all accessible by boat. The average underwater visibility ranges from 120 to more than 160 feet, and you'll see it all here: silver bait fish, eels, and four-eyed butterfly fish, all close enough to touch.

Not all reefs are for all divers. Novices can make resort dives (accompanied by the trained instructors) from the shore, and there are a lot of snorkeling sites from which to choose. The shalow areas of the Palancar and Colombia reefs are excellent, as is Chankanaab beach.

Ancient Maya

For a break from discovering the wonders of the underwater world, visitors can explore the island's several archeoligical sites. Cozumel was a ceremonial center for Mayans who traveled from the mainland to workship at shrines of Ixchel, the goddess of fertility. San Gervasio, located inland off the Transversal, is the most restored.